Firenze: Birthplace of the Italian Renaissance

It only seems fitting that we start our tour of Tuscany in its capital city, Firenze, also known as Florence to most Americans. The city moves at a much slower pace and without the hustle and bustle you would find in Rome. The historical district lies within one square mile, making a car or taxi unnecessary. Firenze is shrouded with so much beauty; its antiquity is apparent by the many statues and fountains that line the piazzas.  With over two millenniums of history to offer, some of the more notable sights within the district are the Ponte Vecchio, Uffizi, Piazza del Duomo, and the Galleria dell’Accademia. Some of my favorite places however are just off the beaten path and offer interaction with the locals.

  • Piazzale Michelangelo: Across the Arno River, perched high above the city, the piazza offers the most spectacular panoramic view of the historical district of Firenze. Although the piazza is reachable by foot, it is a steep hike to the top of the hill making a $5 taxi to the top a more desirable option.
  • Taddei: Simone Taddei, a third generation master craftsman of handmade fine Italian leathers, owns a workshop just a few blocks to the east of the Piazza della Repubblica. I met Simone on my last visit to the region, and his hospitality was unparalleled in comparison to other vendors in the area.
  • Piazza Santa Croce Market: When visiting the city on the weekend, I recommend a walk over to the Piazza Santa Croce Open Air Market. This experience will allow tourists to mingle with the locals and purchase some of the best produce in the region.
  • San Lorenzo Market: Firenze offers an abundance of shopping; the market skirts the edge of the historical district and offers better bargains than the more popular and over crowed markets in the town center. The San Lorenzo Market offers leather jackets, belts, wallets, silk ties, jewelry and other crafts made by the local artisans, all willing to negotiate their pricing.

It would be remiss of me to not share details where artwork dating back to the Renaissance can be found. The Uffizi is arguably the most famous museum in the world offering paintings and sculptures from renowned artists such as da Vinci, Raphael, Botticelli, and Michelangelo. Lastly,David, a masterpiece hand carved from marble by Michelangelo at the height of the Renaissance is housed at the Galleria dell’Accademia, and a must see when traveling through Tuscany. The lines can be quite long to enter the museum so I recommend making a reservation for later that afternoon or the following day to bypass the lines.

When the sun starts to set, head over to the Piazza della Repubblica, on the south side of the square are three tents. I don’t recall the name, however the middle tent behind the carousel is my restaurant of choice. It you want service second to none, ask if Romano is working and sit as his table. A Brunello with the Bistecca Fiorentina served medium rare is my recommendation for those who enjoy a porterhouse steak.

Salute…

 

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Lake Como: Part I

Nestled at the base of the Alps is one of Italy’s largest lakes and one of the deepest in all of Europe, Lake Como. The lake is nearly 30 miles long, 3 miles wide, and over 1300 feet deep.  During the hot summer months, the lake is a popular destination for Italians looking to get away from the humidity that overtakes the southern and Tuscan regions of Italy.

I visited Lake Como for the first time on my last trip in 2010. The lake was my final stop during a trip across the country, and it is one that has quickly become a must do on future trips to Italy. What impressed me most were the small villages that are spread throughout the lake. Although accessible by car, I chose the ferries because they hit various sectors of Lake Como.

Because the stop was unexpected, I started my tour in the town of Como. The ferry was a round trip ticket that allowed for riders to hop on and off throughout the day in the villages of Torno, Motrasio, Rovenna, and Cernobbio. The harbors were not lined with million dollar yachts; instead they were filled with two passenger rowboats with a single motor off the stern. The boats were not tied in the water at a dock; they were pulled up on the cement ramps, and tied down by weights that lay in the sand. As I walked up the cobblestone path that lead from the water, I came across Carlotta, a three year old riding her bicycle with her Nonna following close behind.

My second stop on the lake was the commune of Cernobbio. Although small in size, it was better suited to accommodate tourists visiting the lower area of the lake. The harbor is set on the west shore offering a view of the summit to the Alps that rose from the northern shores. A short stroll up the hill into town was where all the shops and restaurants were located.   I opted for the Tom & Jerry Ristorante Pizzeria and ordered the risotto and pizza, which believe it or not was the perfect combination for a chilly afternoon.

I hopped back on the ferry for my return to Como. It was a little after noon when I arrived back at the port. I contemplated taking the water taxi deeper into the lake to the villages of Bellagio, Varenna, and Menaggio. I was told the boat ride was over an hour long, and after realizing that it didn’t allow for time to complete this in one day, I opted to take the ride to Bellagio and grab a hotel for the evening.

Check back for Lake Como Part II for my visits to Bellagio, Varenna, and Menaggio.

Carlotta and Nonna

Carlotta and Nonna

Torno Harbor

Torno Harbor

View of the Alps from Cernobbio

View of the Alps from Cernobbio

 

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Venice: The Floating City (PART III)

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To most, Venice is known for its gondoliers, the many bridges that connect the near 200 outlets that connect to the Grand Canal, and St. Mark’s Square that use to be home to thousands of pigeons that were known for swarming the piazza to be fed by the countless tourists. Although visiting those places is a must to first time visitors, the city has so much more to offer to anyone willing to step off the beaten path.

As the old saying goes, “All roads lead to Rome,” here in Venice, they all lead to St. Mark’s Square via the Rialto Bridge, straight through the heart of the city. There is however a path less traveled by the tourists, and one I found more intriguing and used by the locals who reside on the many islands that make up this magical city. The walkway begins at the train station and circles the outside of the Grand Canal starting with the Rio Tera´Lista de Spagna. It’s an opportunity to experience an unspoiled Venice that contrasts the more commercialized inner route. It’s a Venice that emphasizes quality over quantity, and even better, a more authentic experience and more relaxed lifestyle.

Just north of Venice is the smaller island of Murano. Murano is home to the art of glass making that has been a tradition to the island since the early 1200’s. Glassmakers are known for passing their knowledge to there descendants, and have done so for many generations. Because Murano Glass is a large part of the revenue stream to the island, factories offer complimentary roundtrip transportation to the island with the understanding that you attend a free tour of the factory. The tour concludes at the showroom where you can purchase glasswork from the masters that work behind the scenes creating these masterpieces.

To the north of Murano is an even smaller island named Burano. Like Venice it is made up of four islands and connected by bridges that cross from one to the other. Burano is known for it’s brightly painted homes you can be sees from the sea as you make your way into the island. Burano is also known for handmade lace that is exported all throughout Europe. The island does not get a big draw from tourists due to most travelers lacking time to make the six-mile journey across the lagoon. Personally, that is what I appreciate most about Burano. It is an opportunity to visit a place that has preserved its antiquity making it a memorable experience.

Venice in itself is something you will remember for a lifetime, but the road less traveled is one that will give you stories to share with loved ones that are unique and likely to be one they had never heard of.

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Venice: The Floating City (PART II)

Venice, “Queen of the Adriatic” offers an experience like no other. Venice is a destination location, and because of that, it can be one of the most expensive stops on a tour of Italy. My trips to the region in search of new and exciting ways to see Venice allow me to share ideas on how to get the most out of your trip.

The first decision is to decide how long to stay in Venice. I have found that two nights is sufficient to experience most of what the city has to offer. The costliest part of visiting Venice is the hotel, and with prices upwards near $300 per night in the off-season, twice that in the peak, you will want to keep your feet moving to try and keep the cost down. However if you prefer to relax and watch the city unfold throughout the day, a room with a view along the Grand Canal is what you should look for. Most hotels in Venice are small and only have 4-6 rooms with a view, so booking direct with the hotel will give you the best advantage on getting what you want.

Venice is known for its seafood; in fact most of it comes fresh from the Adriatic Sea earlier that day. With that in mind, food can come at a premium if you choose to eat at one of the many restaurants that line the canal, or more so in the middle of St. Mark’s Square. Instead ask one of the locals (not the hotel concierge who gets a kickback) for a good restaurant that is away from the touristy areas. With so many dishes to choose from, I highly recommend the seafood risotto as a side dish to start with. With an abundance of fresh seafood, the broth it is made with is always rich in flavor and adds a certain element to this savory dish.

Shopping around Venice can be overwhelming with vendors along the path to St. Mark’s Square. One of the most notable souvenirs that can be found is the Carnival mask. The Carnival of Venice dates back to the 12th century, and the city celebrates it each year during the two weeks prior to Ash Wednesday. To keep up with the demand, many vendors are now buying plastic masks made in China. If you prefer the handmade mask made in Venice, ask for the ones made of paper maché with the stamped seal on the inside. They will cost you a little more, but it will be a genuine piece hand crafted by a local artisan.

Now that I have covered the history of Venice, and also where to eat, stay and shop, make sure to check back for the third part of this post where I will give my perspective on how to travel about the city to not only see the hot spots, but also the best photo ops by strolling off the beaten path.

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Venice: The Floating City (PART I)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

What can be said of Venice that has not already been said? The city is known for its beauty and unlike anything the eyes have seen. Hollywood has used Venice as a center point for several American films, most recently The Tourist, The Italian Job, and The Talented Mr. Ripley just to name a few. Even Las Vegas has tried to bring the Venetian experience to the United States with the Venetian Hotel and Casino.

Venezia as they say it in Italy is the capital city to the region of Veneto. It is comprised of over a hundred small islands and is 100% free of automobiles. The only transportation is by foot or boat. The Grande Canal is the main artery through the center of the city, which feeds to nearly 200 outlets. Over 400 bridges cross over the water ways however only two stretch across the Grande Canal, the Ponte degli Scalzi and the more famous Ponte di Rialto, better known as the Rialto Bridge. Although I highly recommend experiencing Venezia on foot, three forms of water transportation are available; the more economical Vaperatto (Water Bus) will get you from end to end for a couple Euro. The second is Water Taxi, which is more of a speedboat and can get you wherever you need within minutes for about €20, and lastly the more popular Gondola, which is mostly used by tourists. The gondola is operated by a gondolier, and for about €100 can take you for a romantic 20-minute experience.

I like to describe Venezia as a huge shopping center. The buildings on the island are 3-4 stories tall, and almost everywhere you go, the bottom floor is a storefront or restaurant, which is why I recommend the experience on foot. Although there are many routes to get from one end of the island to the other, the vast majority of the people are like a school of fish using the same path, making it almost impossible to get lost. Whether you start from the train station or your hotel, the first destination that signs will direct you towards is the Rialto Bridge, from there everything leads to Piazza San Marco, also known as St. Mark’s Square which is the main are where you will see most people congregating. The piazza is home to the Basilica di San Marco and also the Campanile (bell tower). Restaurants offer seating in the piazza for a €10 premium on top of the food bill.

Venice is known for it’s seafood, and their risotto is hands down the best I have ever tasted. In fact for an experience that is unlike anything else; I recommend the open air fish market. It is next to the Rialto Bridge and any local will gladly point you in the right direction. As the fishermen return home, they unload their catch and restaurateurs and locals come in to purchase seafood that only hours ago was caught fresh out of the Adriatic Sea.

Because there is so much more to tell, I am breaking up Venice in two parts. I will follow up next week with my recommendations on where to stay and some of the sites that are off the beaten path. It will be a less travel routes through the island and even more, an experience like no other.

 

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Siena: A Getaway into the Rolling Hills of Tuscany

I can go on for days telling you why my favorite place to visit in Italy is the small town of Siena, however the photos from my gallery says it all. Siena is a commune nestled in the rolling hills of Tuscany, about an hour train ride to the south of Firenze. Although the town’s earliest settlers date back to 500BC, the Siena of today was constructed somewhere in the 13th century when the Duomo (Siena Cathedral) was completed.

Much like other small towns throughout the region, Siena has still preserved its antiquity, unlike its more known rivaled town of Firenze. Imagine sitting on a train looking at the rolling hills as it pulls into the stazione. As you exit the train, before you stand a mammoth wall of stone that was constructed in the 1100’s to protect the people from enemies that were looking for expansion into other areas.

Once inside the perimeter you discover a city that has yet to become commercialized by the big western corporations. As you walk through the streets, buildings that rise 3-4 stories surround you. The cobblestone road beneath your feet dates back centuries, the streets barely wide enough for a full size car to pass through are shared by the people walking through the city. GPS won’t help you navigate through this town; the only visible sky is that directly above you.

As you continue your journey, the architecture that surrounds you was constructed centuries before American was ever discovered. Signs are on every corner guiding you to the town’s square, the shell shaped Piazza del Campo. Tall buildings surround the square, and at the base of the piazza is the Torre del Mangia bell tower. The location is known as the meeting place for the people of Siena, and twice each year the piazza hosts “the Palio,” where riders race bareback around a dirt track this is laid to continue a tradition that dates back to the 1600’s.

On the bottom floor of each building that surrounds the piazza are restaurants serving both fine and traditional Italian cuisine; my personal favorite is “il Palio.” Although there is seating inside, Italians always choose to eat “al fresco” whenever the weather permits. The piazza is filled with tourists, lover, and children running freely, or shall I say living “la dolce vita.”

If you still have energy, you can climb the 500 steps to the bell tower at the top of the Torre del Mangia that rises 100m above the town. Although it is free, the climb is not for those that are claustrophobic. The interior is only eleven feet wide and the stairs are barely wide enough for the people walking up and those coming down. Because of this only 25 people at a time are allowed to enter the tower. The top of the tower offers a breath taking 360-degree view of the town and into the beautiful hills of Tuscany.

–Ciao

 

 

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Planning Italy

So now that I have found a topic that interest some, much of the feedback I received wanted to know where to begin planning such a trip. With 500 word limits, lets not waste anymore time, and let’s start planning an Italian vacation to Rome, Florence, and Venice for Spring Break 2011! The flight is the most expensive piece of the trip, so lets start there. First search the airline that has a hub in your home airport, as they are likely to have more specials. If you can sneak out of class on Wednesday & Thursday before the break, at the time I wrote this post, US Airways had several departures from Phoenix to Rome starting at $307 each way!

So now that you on your way to Rome how do you trek across the country and get the most for your money? RailEurope offers non-EU citizens a rail pass that gives unlimited travel on the trains for a 24-hour period; simply choose how many days you need the rail. For this trip I selected three days for a cost of $177. Keep in mind you won’t be using the rail system everyday, so you will want to make the most out of each travel day and hop on and off the train at as many locations you can on the way to your next destination.

The last piece to putting this trip together is determining where to stay. Hostels are a great option for the young traveler on a budget if you are ok with staying in a dorm room environment. While in Rome, Hostels.com has the Mona Lisa Hostel located minutes away from Trevi Fountain for $25pp a night. When in Florence, the Eurostudent is steps away from the Ponte Vecchio at a rate of $20pp each night. As you travel to Venice, hop off the train in Bolonga for a brief visit and then on to Verona to see the Balcony of Romeo and Juliet, and off to the floating city of Venice for a stay in one of the Residenza Santa Croce’s private suites in the historical centre for $39pp.

Totaling everything up, you have your airfare for $614, rail at $177, 8 nights at various hostels for $222, leaving you to figure out a food per diem. You can get away with $50 per day very easily by having a Panini and coffee for breakfast, an amazing Italian meal with wine for lunch, and pizza for dinner, and of course a gelato or two each day. The grand total to spend Spring Break in Italy is only $1413 (plus taxes), not including spending money for souvenirs. With so much to see, check back on the next post and I will give you more travel tips on what to see and also where to go off the beaten path to get the most out of your trip!

 

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Italy: Off the Beaten Path

All roads lead to Rome, a popular phrase that dates back many centuries. Rome has a history as one of the first empires of mankind. It’s home to the Vatican, the central government to the Roman Catholic Church, and the largest Christian faith on the planet. It has more treasures than any other country in the world. It’s a place that can be daunting to most tourists; because of this, many seek tour guides that charges thousands to show them the most popular points of interest. While these tours can be exciting, I have found that with a little research, and a few tips from more seasoned travelers, you can see more for a lot less!

The first thing you should know is that most of Italy is relatively safe, in fact I would even go so far as to say you have nothing to worry about. During my trips my entire family, children included, have walked the streets in the late hours of the evening visiting some of the popular destinations. In fact, some of these locations are best viewed early in the morning or in the latter hours of the day when most tour companies are either meeting for breakfast of wrapping up their day and enjoying an overpriced dinner. In fact, this tip doubles in your favor. The point here is to hit the main attractions early, in the afternoon head off the beaten path, enjoy a hearty Italian meal for lunch, visit another popular venue in the late afternoon, and then a pizza for dinner.

The next thing people want to know is how to get from one location to the next. Well Europe has one of the best transportation systems in the world. Traveling from city to city is best done by rail where you can enjoy the countryside and more importantly, save hundreds of dollars from tour busses that will travel down busy highways with limited views of what Italy has to offer. The beautiful things about the rail system is that there are programs designed for American’s to get the most out of their trip. RailUSA offers unlimited use on the high-speed trains for as low as a couple hundred dollars. Trains leave every hour to just about every city and you can be in your next town in less than two hours.

The last tip in this post is where to stay. There are many travel agency sites on the net offering specials, use the sites for ratings, pictures, maps, and anything else you need to decide where you want to stay, however do not book through them. I have found that most hotels are more than happy to at least honor the price when booking directly with them, and in many cases discounting further and saving as much as 20%.  Hopefully I have given you enough information to give this method a chance and if you keep coming back, my future posts will give you tons of information to help you put your own trip together. Ciao!!

 

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